March 2013
In just over two hours from Brisbane you feel like you are in the heart of France, but before the latest ice age when there was a tropical climate, lush sprawling green vistas and glassy emerald seas.
It all sounds like a cliché, but welcome to Noumea, New Caledonia, where the Pacific meets Europe.
And where it really helps to have at least a smattering of school French so you can book a restaurant table, ask directions and read the signs. “Avez vouz en table pour deux personnes?”
Noumea has some wonderful French restaurants, like Chez Toto, which the online guide says is more French than any Parisian café. On my third visit, even though “Je suis vegetarienne”, the food is still fabulous. This time I’m served a gourmet omelette and salad. The chocolate tart for desert is well worth dying of the extra calories.
Au P’tit Café is another wonderful restaurant, but you need to catch it during the week as it’s not open on the weekend – apparently the owner likes to sail too much, something I can deeply understand.
I stay once again at the Casa de Sol, just a short walk away along Anse Vata Bay to where I’m working at the Secretariat of Pacific Community. This apartment hotel has spacious rooms and glorious 180 degree views which makes one forgive its very tattered edges.
Out front is the Bay de Citron, with protected swimming and the opportunity for an early morning snorkel along the shallow reefs that fringe its coarse sandy edges. I see the common banded sea snake, a school of nemos, and a smattering of bright blue corals.
But now for breakfast at the local café, which serves fresh delicious French bread or croissants with butter and homemade jams. “Mais oui, Madame.”
(1080)