My biggest fear with all this tramping is not the weight, or not being able to sleep or night, or even my dodgy knees. It’s fear that I’ll keep Helen (who is much fitter and more experienced than me) waiting and she’ll get impatient.
But the Abel Tasman has boosted my confidence as Helen says she hasn’t had to wait too long for me along the track, and it’s only going down steep ridges and hills that I slow right up.
But I must admit, I am a little afraid of the Heaphy Track. After walking almost 6kms this morning finishing the Abel Tasman, I know its a slog 17.5kms uphill from Brown Hut to the Perry Saddle Hut.
And it is hard – a relentless series of switchbacks on a track littered with boulders ranging in size from cricket balls to basketballs, but unfortunately not nearly so regular in shape or size. This makes it tough on the feet and legs as we slog uphill through the Beech forest that never seems to end.
Thankfully it’s not steep but we’re very relieved to reach the Aorere shelter and find that we only have one hour (instead of the 2-3 we thought) to go!
Finally, (why does the last kilometre always seem so long) we reach the brand new Perry Saddle Hut and find a group of 8 women just starting their adventure. Helen names them the “Octagang” and we wonder if they’ll still be talking to each other in 5 days time!
Walking the downs and forests of the Heaphy track is a delight of flowers, ferns and fungi amongst the tussock grasses and Helen and I take our time to walk down the saddle and ridge over the next few days.
On the third day, I’m slow as usual getting ready – emerging from my sleeping bag, dismantling the tent, having breakfast, and packing up my pack. Helen asks if it’s at all possible for us to start the walk before 10.30am that day!
Ok, so I am not a morning person but I realise I need to get my act together earlier as Helen’s right – it’s much better to walk in the mornings than the heat of the day! This leaves us time for a cleansing plunge for seconds into the icy mountain pools.
And fabulous weather continues. When we’re picked up at the end of the track, Brian our shuttle driver, complains of the drought which has lasted all of 3 weeks! (Clearly, different to Australian droughts that last years/decades!)
In fact, thanks to the list Helen sent me before the walk, the only things in my pack I haven’t used are my wet weather gear and beanie. And the pack has never felt too heavy or caused any strain – although it took me several days and a demo from Helen to work out how to pack it properly!
This brings me to food. And the menu Helen has put together means we’re never hungry. Museli or porridge for breakfast; vitawheats, peanut butter and cheese for lunch (a personal favourite combo) and gourmet meals in the evening.
Our last evening meal at the Heaphy estuary down back by the beach on the West coast of the South Island is my favourite. Rehydrated mixes mushrooms in a cream sauce with pine nuts over freshly steamed couscous. This time it’s supplemented with some rocket and herbs courtesy of the rangers’ hut.
Scenic-wise this last campsite is probably the best of the entire trip! But the swarm of sand flies eventually drives us to safety inside our tents.
The last coastal walk out the next day is spectacular – over bridges, headlands and beaches and too soon we’re at the end.
But I feel great that I made it and I didn’t make Helen wait too much, and I’ll certainly be back for more – fitter, thinner and wiser!
me slowly emerging in morning!
hobbit in the bush!
tussocks
the end!
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